Holocaust, Scrolls, Herod and the Old City

Our beautiful home for the rest of our stay: the Notre Dame Jerusalem Center.

A luxurious extra hour of sleep gave us renewed energy for some lessons from history today. We traveled to Yad Vashem, the official Holocaust museum of Israel, and were moved to the core with the story that we thought we knew, but got to know more deeply and personally. Our reflection time was held afterwards in the grove of the "Trees of Righteousness," planted in honor of those who had helped the Jewish people during the horror of Nazi rule. It just so happened we stopped by benches near a tree planted for Cornelia Blaauw of Holland.

Sharing thoughts among the Trees of Righteousness.

Our nearest tree honored a brave Dutch woman.

Some in our group have personal experiences of World War II, from family or friends. We noted—with some tears—that while that evil has stopped, the ramifications linger on to this day, within Israel and worldwide.

As we drove through the city, we saw American and Israeli flags interspersed on the light poles of major streets, anticipating President Obama's visit later this week. "America and Israel: An Unbroken Alliance," many signs proclaimed.

Next, we went to the Israel Museum, where we could see a large, intricately designed model of the city of Jerusalem so we could understand where buildings and gates were situated. Pastor Bill took care to show us where key biblical moments might have occurred, noting that there is always debate on most "exact spots." What a unique and amazing place, so loved and so contested!

Pastor Bill points out key places in Jerusalem at the large scale model of the city.

We saw the striking outer design of the Shrine of the Book, with one black wall facing a pure white swooping dome structure with water continuously pouring over. Inside, we were enthralled with the story of the Qumran society and the Dead Sea Scrolls. (One of our 2013 recipients of Calvin's Distinguished Alumni Award is James Vander Kam '64, one of the most respected scholars on the Scrolls in the world.)

The Dead Sea Scrolls are celebrated under this edifice, the Shrine of the Book.

Elsewhere in the sprawling museum complex was a special exhibit on Herod the Great, featuring his building projects (many of which we saw earlier in our travels) and his recently discovered tomb. It was so fortunate that we were in the country during the run of this exhibit—shown as a sort of memorial to Ehud Nizer, the great Israeli archeologist who died at the excavation site soon after the tomb discovery. While a great builder, Herod was a very evil man; even Caesar Augustus said of him, "It would be better to be a pig owned by Herod than to be one of his family members."

Entering the Herod the Great exhibit at the Israel Museum.

After we got back to the Notre Dame house, we had a few hours of free time to roam the Old City, which is just across the street from our hotel. Once inside the New Gate, one is transported back in time to narrow, stone walkways and small shops and living quarters built one on top of the other. Yet even the Old City is not immune from commercialism, as numerous places sported Western-influenced t-shirts and other kitschy gear. One college-themed shop was selling pennants and yes, there was one from Calvin College! We had an enjoyable time taking in the sights, sounds and smells of old Jerusalem.

Into the Old City we go!

Yes, even at Ali Baba's in the Old City: a Calvin pennant for sale!

Loni Van Denend makes a fabric purchase.

For dinner, we walked back into the Old City to dine at the Melia Center, a non-profit run by the Arab Orthodox Society to assist Palestinian Christian women. The center is housed in a beautiful building overlooking Hezekiah's Pool and it serves as museum, educational and training center and, of late, part-time restaurant. We had a delicious Palestinian meal and tour of the facility, including the new rooftop cafe expansion. A worthy ministry.

Dinner at the Melia Center.

We have all been touched by the mystery and magic of Jerusalem and look forward to more adventures this week, especially the important sites of Lent and the Resurrection.
~  Mike Van Denend

Beth-Shan, Jericho and on to Jerusalem

We said a reluctant good-bye to Galilee this morning, but felt a tinge of excitement now that Jerusalem was our end-point for today's travels. A gentle rain—our first since here—gently fell.

Our first stop was in Beth-Shan, where a brisk walk brought us to a dig revealing city walls and an Egyptian governor's house. We were amazed at the sophisticated layout of the structure. Pastor Bill reminded us that Beth-Shan was the place that the bodies of King Saul and his sons had been brought after their deaths.

Exploring the ruins of Beth-Shan.

Fran Redder meets an Egyptian.

We moved on to the Roman excavation near that site—the incredible Scythopolis. We viewed the ruins from high above to see the breathtaking view of a meticulously designed and built city. Walking down the marble and stone thoroughfares and observing stately pillars and ornate tiles, we envisioned a city that was the envy of many. However, these homages to man's ingenuity, like many before and after, didn't last. One light-hearted moment was learning about the public latrine system.

The descent into the incredible Roman city of Sycthopolis.

Glenn Kuyers tries out the seating at the innovative Roman public latrines in Sycthopolis.

Driving into Jericho, we saw the inequality of the land use for Israelis and Palestinians, a theme we are beginning to note everywhere in the country. Upon arrival at the world's longest inhabited city, we viewed ancient remnants of Jericho and then at last gave the shoppers of the group something to zero in on: the famous Temptations restaurant and gift shop.

Welcome to Jericho!

Evidence that Jericho is the world's oldest continuously lived-in city.

Just outside of Jericho, we stopped at a site that revealed the palace of Herod the Great, one mean guy going by the body count. At the same time, we could see the Jericho-to-Jerusalem road, the very one Jesus traveled in his obedient journey to the cross. We also reflected on the stories of the blind man at the gate and Zaccheus, both Jericho stories, and how blindness can be both physical and spiritual—and that Jesus is the healer of both.

It was also here that a group of Bedouin boys tracked down our group and pleaded for scarf sales and donkey rides; the scarves did better than the donkey!

Roger Konyndyk makes a Bedouin friend.

Now it was finally time to head to Jerusalem. The contour of the wilderness region in-between Jericho and Jerusalem is truly remarkable, unlike any we've seen. We stopped on a back-road hillside and had a Sunday "wilderness service" featuring reflections on Psalm 23, singing and stories from our own faith journeys. It was windy there and chilly; our service culminated with Irene Konyndyk singing Rutter's "Alleluia," and when she finished, brilliant rays of sunshine broke through the clouds. Inspiring!

A reflective time for Sunday worship in the wilderness between Jericho and Jerusalem.

We can see Jerusalem at last!

The drive into Jerusalem had necks craning left and right. We did jump out of the bus while high on a hill to get a quick survey of the key landmarks of the city from Khalil, but we knew the actual exploration was to come another day. We're now checked into the stately Notre Dame Guest House, just outside the New Gate to the old city. An unforgettable five days await.

~ Mike Van Denend

A stony hike, a boat ride and a mountaintop message

It was fun to start this day celebrating Katie Dew's birthday!

Today's eventful day in Galilee began in the Golan Heights with a long hike to the ruins of Gamla, a Zealot fortress written about by Josephus and containing a synagogue remnant. Jesus almost certainly preached there. To get to Gamla, a long descent on stony paths was required and we needed to help one another transverse the terrain. We delighted in the soaring eagles above us, but needed to concentrate on almost every step. Gamla's synagogue gave Pastor Bill the chance to challenge the thinking that one particular people has a corner on the gospel. Humans seem to have such a desire to divide; Jesus brings people together. After all, even within the band of disciples was Simon the Zealot and Matthew the tax collector!

The soothing natural scene was occasionally interrupted by loud booms in the distance, as Israeli troops conducted military practices in the heights—yet another reminder of a land still troubled by division.

Lorraine and Dick Katte are ready for the long hike to Gamla.

Pastor Bill shares Gamla's history as we prepare to make our descent.

The hearty group heads to Gamla.

 

Bernie Woltjer and Tony Dew contemplate the breach in Gamla's city wall.

After an attempt to reach Susita (the road was newly blocked), we instead reflected at the nearby pastoral site of Kursi about Jesus healing the demonic and sending the evil spirits into pigs—which happened near these places. We learned how that one new Christian started a movement in that area which many years later provided a delegate to the Council of Nicea; it was ever more meaningful to recite the creed together in that historic location.

Teaching lesson at Kursi.

 

We enjoyed a quick lunch of shawerma (lamb on a pita) recommended by our guide, Khalil, and then got ready for our boat ride in the Sea of Galilee. Our very enthusiastic Israeli boat captain was determined to get us dancing to some national songs, but the most impressive lessons were simply being on that expanse of water, noting the many boat-and-sea scenes of the gospels. The wind picked up when we were in the middle of the sea, adding some real life understanding of the elements and how Jesus calmed hearts, minds and nature.

 

On the boat headed into the Sea of Galilee.

 

Our time in Capernaum was intriguing but more rushed due to the crush of other tour groups at that important (and popular) site in the Lord's ministry. It was fascinating to see the archeological site uncovering the synagogue area where Jesus taught and the home of Peter's mother-in-law, where we noted that there could be a sign on the door stating, "Jesus slept here."

Peter's mother-in-law's house in Capernaum.

Nearby by is the traditional site—Mensa Christi—where Jesus reconciled Peter after the resurrection. A powerful story of reconciliation to take deep into our hearts.

We ended the day on a mountain slope where some say Jesus delivered the Sermon on the Mount. It was among the most moving times of the trip thus far as Pastor Bill delivered many passages of the text by memory on that special knoll. The radical, yet heart-filling message of these words had deep impact of the members of our group, just as our Lord's original words changed lives forever back then.

On the Mount of the Beatitudes.

As we arrived back at Nof Ginosar, we had a chance to see the 2,000-year-old boat that was found at the edge of the sea some years ago. After having just finished our own breezy ride on the waters of Galilee, we could more clearly picture Christ in that boat, saying "Peace be still," both to the waves and to each one of us.

We leave Galilee tomorrow morning and there will be some sadness as we've grown to love this region that Jesus so loved.  ~  Mike

Dan, Pan and a dip in the Jordan

Some of the group rose early to take in the amazing sunrise over the Sea of Galilee. Sparrows flew around us and the strains of "His Eye is on the Sparrow" rose from grateful voices.

We spent today in the north portion of Galilee, driving in the morning to the site of Dan, near the Syrian and Lebanese borders. There, we walked in silence through a gorgeous landscape of flora, fauna and singing birds in the Dan Nature Preserve—but just around the corner our eyes grew wide as we saw the remnants of the gates of the city of Dan constructed during Canaanite times. What an architectural feat! As walked on the stone paths through the site, we noted the high place of sacrifice and other hints that this was a city beholden to other gods. This culminated in Jeroboam's temple where a golden calf and altar were found. Pastor Bill showed us in scripture how the tribe of Dan refused God's inheritance and chose this northern land instead, and added other deities to their worship. May we realize that we have a "goodly inheritance" and trust God alone!

At the gates of ancient Dan.

Pastor Bill taught about the tribe of Dan and appreciating
"goodly inheritances" near the uncovered altar site.

From Dan to Pan—one of the deities worshipped at Caesarea Philippi. Both Dan and this site are gorgeous places with beautiful vistas and peaceful brooks, but both had been given over to the worship of Baal, Zeus, Pan and other objects of veneration. It is at Philippi that Jesus asked his disciples the question, "And who do you say that I am?" Peter's confession, "You are the Christ," is the bedrock statement on which our faith is built. It was the perfect place to have this dialogue, surrounded by the remnants of so many other-than-Christ symbols. We pledged to be bolder in our lives and testimonies.

Climbing up the ruins at Caesarea Philippi.

 

Carol Smith reads us the "Who do you say that I am?" passage.

All of this time, we were aware of how close we were to the Syrian and Lebanese borders. Khalil filled us in with the many wars that had been fought over this territory as the hills of the Golan Heights towered around us. He pointed out the areas that were still full of land mines, some planted by the Israelis and some by the Syrians. Bill told the heartbreaking story of how the Lebanese conflict has affected families. This troubled land still searches for peace.

 

Next, we drove back south to Korazim where a very detailed archeological site shows clearly the layout of homes and a synagogue of early times. Pastor Bill showed us how the parable of the persistent neighbor would immediately resonate with the people of Jesus' day because of the architecture of the homes. The synagogue has such clear detail; we learned much about what the traditions in that structure were like.

In a home at the Korazim site.

 
Nearby, Bethsaida is said to be the home of Philip, Andrew and Peter—and perhaps James and John, too. Such a high percentage of the apostles—must have been a town with a lot of character! We also talked about the healing of the blind man and the two miraculous feedings of thousands; we were reminded anew that Jesus is the bread of life for all!

Teaching at Bethsaida.

Our very talented bus driver, Na-El.

Finally, we spent time at the Jordan River near Bethsaida, where one will not find "the mighty Jordan," but instead a small, rushing stream, easily crossable by wading/stepping through. Regardless of the river's size at our visit, the importance of the water was powerful. Pastor Bill talked about the baptisms in that river and reminded us that Jesus entered the water willingly to take on the chaos of the world and bring peace and real freedom to all. Many of us walked into the cool, refreshing stream and spent time in prayer, holding hands as we spoke to our Lord and concluding with a deeply-felt rendition of "When Peace Like a River." A heart-filling experience!  ~ Mike Van Denend

Pastor Bill invites us into the Jordan River.

Prayer together in the Jordan.

Abuna, Nazareth, Arbel and Magdala

Today started a little more leisurely with a later wake-up call and a short drive in Haifa to the offices of Archbishop Elias Chacour. We were thrilled to have private time with "Abuna," as he is called by his parishioners, students and friends; many of us had read his stirring book Blood Brothers. Father Chacour told us that he is a "walking contradiction"—a Palestinian Arab Christian Israeli—and about the challenges that causes in his mission to break down stereotypes. He challenged us to be peacemakers, but noted that being peacemakers sometimes means raising issues on injustice loud and persistently. All of us were spellbound as he talked and inspired as we concluded our time with him.

Lita and Laryn Zoerhof talk with Abuna, Bishop Chacour.

Then, we took the bus to Nazareth, the boyhood home of Jesus. We didn't go into the town, but instead spent time on Mt. Precipice, the purported place where Jesus was threatened with being thrown over a cliff. Pastor Bill explained that this could not be the spot for many reasons, but it was a perfect location to view the city of Nazareth, houses piled on houses, from one side and the flat, green Jezreel Valley from the other. Bill spoke about the boy Jesus and the parental lessons he likely had living in this town and in this Bible-story-rich region. What lessons are we passing on to the next generation?

Pastor Bill teaching on Mt. Precipice, overlooking the Jezreel Valley.


Our resourceful local guide, Khalil.

Ruth and Henry Baron with the town of Nazareth behind them.

Next, we traveled to Mt. Arbel and a warm hike up the stony paths resulted in an incredible vantage point from which to view the northern part of the Sea of Galilee. There they were: Capernaum, Korazin, Bethsaida and the many other places where Jesus did much of his ministry. We spent quiet time with Mark 1-9 noting how many stories featured these cities and then Bill and Lyn played a recording of "The Hallelujah Chorus," bringing the meditations of our hearts to a praise-filled conclusion.

Our view of the Sea of Galilee from the top of Mt. Arbel.

The last stop of the day was a surprise. Through our local guide, Khalil, we were able to see a very recent archeological site nearby in Magdala, the home of Mary Magdelene. One of leaders of the project, Claudia, showed us the remains of a verified first century synagogue—with features that would have certainly been true in Jesus' day. In fact, we wondered, could the stones we were viewing have actually been trod by our Lord?

The first century synagogue dig in Magdala.

Magdala dig leader Claudia explains this exciting find.

Another amazing day! We checked in to our comfortable resort, Nof Ginosar, on the shores of the Sea of Galilee, for the first of three nights here. Our end-of-the-day circle of reflection was full of soul-stirring stories and challenges for our future walks as followers of Jesus of Nazareth.  ~  Mike

Caesarea, Megiddo and Mar Elias

No rest for our hearty group! We were up early and drove south on the coastal highway to view the remnants of Herod's aqueduct system and then to Caesarea, where Herod's palace, theatre and hippodrome have been uncovered. Although much of it has been washed into the sea, the parts of the aqueduct are still incredibly impressive—plus many of the group members got the chance to dip their toes into the Mediterranean Sea.

Group photo at the entrance to Herod's theatre in Caesarea.
(Photo courtesy of Dirk Van Stralen '69, taken by our guide, Khalil.)

 

Pastor Bill lectured on Herod as we sat in the theatre, on the edge of the shore. We lamented the many ills the line of King Herods perpetrated on their subjects. On the other hand, we rejoiced as we read and remembered the ministry of Philip in Caesarea, and the significant and church-altering interaction between Cornelius and Peter. The remains of Herod's palace jut into the sea and the remnants of his fresh water swimming pool (with water from the aqueduct) can still be seen.

The remains include the meeting hall, and it was moving to stand approximately in the place where Paul defended himself before Agrippa. Pastor Bill led us in an emotional reflection on "running the race" with a "cloud of witnesses" encouraging us on as we sat in the viewing section of the hippodrome. Who has cheered us on in our lives? Who are we cheering on and how?

Don Klompeen and Ron Redder standing at the site of Paul's defense
before Agrippa at Herod's palace in Caesarea.

In Megiddo we marveled at the extent of the archeological site, particularly the complex water system, and were able to climb down nearly 200 steps to the bottom, hewn through sheer rock. We also decried the sad history of child sacrifice at the uncovered pagan altar. There is a stunning view at the site overlooking the far-as-the-eye-can-see Jezreel Valley—the Armageddon site of the Book of Revelation. We testified that for followers of Jesus Christ, the final battle has already been won and sang together in praise and dedication.

Pastor Bill leading a study overlooking the Jezreel Valley at Megiddo—Armageddon.

We spent lunch and a good share of the afternoon at Ibillin, the home of Father Elias Chacour, a Palestinian Christian and the writer of Blood Brothers, at the school he founded, Mar Elias Institute. What an inspirational place—and we were welcomed by smiling school children. Volunteers Ted and Joan Settle welcomed us and we were challenged to think about and pray for the immensely difficult struggles between Palestinians and Israelis by Elias, the director of the schools (and named for his godfather, Father Chacour).

One of the delightful children of Mar Elias.

Touring the Church of the Sermon on the Mount, on the school site and wondrously full of iconography, was another special experience. It is a life-changing testament to peace, the message of the Sermon on the Mount and the mission of Father Chacour and the school—Christians, Muslims, Jews and Druze students learning together as they practice "peace across desktops."

The stunning Church of the Sermon on the Mount.

We got back to the Stella Maris much earlier than last night and could relax and dine and (hopefully) catch up on more sleep before tomorrow's activities, starting with a meeting with Father Chacour himself in his Haifa office.  ~  Mike