Our pilgrimage ends, our journey continues

We are back safely in our homes across the country, but still adjusting to the time change and "life as usual." But for we 35 pilgrims, life will never again be "as usual." We have walked where Jesus walked and have seen with our own eyes the roads, the cities, the rivers, the seas and the sights that He experienced. Thanks to Pastor Bill and Lyn, to Khalil and Na-El, to our new friends we met along the way and one another, we are changed people. Above all, we give praise and thanks to God for a journey that went beyond expectations and will empower us to be peacemakers in our communities.

Here we are, at our last meal together in Israel, commissioned to live the life of those whom Jesus calls "blessed" in the Sermon on the Mount. Many of us hope to gather again on Saturday, May 4, at 2 p.m., on the Calvin College campus for the CALL film presentation on Israel and then at a local home to share anew what we learned together. If you have the opportunity to go on such a pilgrimage as we did, we encourage you to do so. Our "pilgrim's club" welcomes new members!

The place:

 

 The food:

The pilgrims:

May grace and peace abound in the Holy Land and in each one of us.
~ Mike Van Denend, Executive Director, Calvin Alumni Association

A life-changing walk for the pilgrims

There was much anticipation (and perhaps an extra heartbeat or two) for this final day because we knew we would be walking the final steps of Jesus—from the Mt. of Olives through the streets of Jerusalem to Calvary and the Garden Tomb.

We assembled at the top of the Mt. of Olives and Pastor Bill showed us the path we would be following, a steep walk downhill into the Garden of Gethsemane, then uphill into the city and along the Via Dolorosa, and eventually to a worship service of celebration.

Pastor Bill gathers us at the top of the Mt. of Olives to explain this eventful day.

The area was busy this day, busier than we had been accustomed to, but these sites are, after all, the most important in Christendom. We first stopped at the Church of Jesus Weeping to talk about the choices mankind made that Passover weekend—rejecting Jesus as the real Lamb of God and the sorrow that our Lord was feeling—with a tie to David's weeping about Absalom on the same mountain many years earlier.

What a beautiful church we viewed; the same architect also designed the next church we saw a short time later, the Church of All Saints, a masterpiece of a structure near ancient olive trees. This is at Gethsemane. Our group was able to escape the crush of people by being let into a small section of the garden, gated off from the public. There we were encouraged to sit under the olive trees, read the story of Jesus in the garden, reflect and pray. An unforgettable time in an unforgettable place.

Meditating and praying in the Garden of Gethsemane.

The olive trees of Gethsemane.

We were near the bottom of the mount, and we had to climb a bit to get into the Old City at Lions Gate and into the crowds once again. But we turned into a church courtyard after a bit and found ourselves at the Pool of Bethsaida and St. Anne's (by tradition, Anne was the mother of Mary).

The Pool of Bethsaida

Near the pool, we recounted the story of the healing and noted once again the counter-cultural message and manner of Jesus. In St. Anne's, the resonant church sanctuary is open to having groups sing together in the front as a choir, and we listened to glorious hymns and prayers in other languages until it was our turn. Loni led us in "Holy, Holy, Holy" and the voices blended as if heaven-helped. Joyful tears and full hearts came with the "Amen."

Our group made a gorgeous sound singing in St. Anne's Church.

The next part of our pilgrim walk took us through the bustling narrow streets of Jerusalem, stopping briefly along the Via Dolorosa to note the various stations of the cross. Many times we could not linger to ponder the sites because of the large crowds and small spaces, but Pastor Bill had alerted us to that and we were able to observe, reflect and continue on to the next station.

Walking the Via Dolorosa.

At the third station.

When we reached the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, we could again assemble as a group. What a crowd, and what ornate surroundings! There were "bells and smells" as some call the formal worship practices and throngs of people waiting in lines to put their hand in the legendary place of the tomb, touch the burial anointment stone slab and walk through the chapel built over what some say is Calvary. Our group stayed close and took this all in, not getting in those lines but thinking about the impact of our Savior's death and resurrection today—2,000 years later.

In the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

 

Pastor Bill took us to a side chamber that contained a burial vault so we could see how people in those days were interred—and get a better idea of the tombs of Jesus's day. By twos were able to duck into the narrow tomb opening and see the burial places. Once we all had a chance to do so, we said the Apostle's Creed together in unison, with others around us pausing to listen.
 

 

Saying the Apostle's Creed together in the tomb area of the church.

There was one more journey to make: to the Garden Tomb. We left the Old City through the congested Damascus Gate, overflowing with vendors with anything from produce and other food offerings to cell phones and toys. We were reminded that even as the Prince of Peace was being sacrificed, for many in the city commerce was going on as if nothing of significance was happening.

Turning a corner into the Garden Tomb area was a welcome respite from the crowds. The gardens were beautiful, the birds were chirping, we felt a welcome peace. The gardens are another of the sites purported by some to be the actual location of Calvary and Joseph of Arimathea's tomb. At least at this site, we could gather, talk and reflect more easily than back at the cacophony of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

The area is run by a British Christian agency and Ivan, our tour guide, spoke with British accent and made no apologies for giving a distinctively Christian message. He admitted that there was debate about the actual site of crucifixion and burial, but gave strong arguments for why this site was possible. We all got a chance to enter another tomb, this one constructed by a wealthy man, such as Joseph of Arimathea. It was another special experience and we noted the sign that was placed on the door as we left the tomb: "He is not here. He is risen."

Could this be Golgotha, the Place of the Skull?

Entering the Garden Tomb.

Our time in the gardens ended with an emotional Communion Service. Pastor Bill took us once again through all of the places we had walked together as pilgrims, reminding us of the significance of each—in Bible times and for us today. We went up for communion in small groups—in the "families" that Bill and Lyn had organized us in for keeping track of one another each day. We sang "He Lives," "In Christ Alone" and, of course, our daily pilgrim song,"In the Light of Jesus." It was a special way to end our travels, there, in the Garden Tomb, praising God for sending His Son. Jesus walked the paths we had just walked, and had given a counter-cultural message of peace—what the world needed then, and what the world needs now.

Our closing Communion Service.

Boarding the bus, we headed for the Tel Aviv airport, but not before stopping halfway for a wonderful farewell Palestinian dinner. We got to thank Khalil and Na-El for their important contributions as guide and driver (and leaving the restaurant Na-El showed us his amazing skill one more time). Touchingly, Khalil said we had become his "soul mates" in this short period of time.

Pastor Bill thanks Khalil for a great partnership.

  

As we got our luggage and headed into the airport, we wondered, could this pilgrim journey be over already? Even as we asked, we knew the answer: No, our journey will continue, as pilgrims in the places in which we live—now with even clearer knowledge of the journey of our Lord during his time on earth.

          In the light of Jesus
          May we walk with pilgrim's feet
          Grant us grace along our journey
          Bringing peace to all we meet.

Thank you for sharing this journey with us.
~  Mike Van Denend


The Temple, Walls, Tunnels and Prisons

We are so grateful to our incredible leaders, Bill and Lyn!

Instead of our customary loading of the bus this morning, we simply walked as a group into the Old City and made our way to the Temple Mount. The security check-point lines to wait were not long since we were up and at 'em early. We climbed the steps and had our breaths stop short as we saw the majestic Dome of the Rock, the Islamic holy place built on the site of the old Jewish temple. Khalil described significant features since we are not allowed inside.

The breath-taking Dome of the Rock.

Khalil giving us details about Muslim history and traditions.

Next we walked to the Wohl Museum and the Burnt House, archeological finds underneath a modern Jerusalem hotel, where we could view clear designs of the wealthier houses of the time of Jesus, some of which may have been the homes of high priests. It helped us visualize where Jesus was brought for questioning and the kind of courtyard in which Peter warmed his hands and denied Christ.

In the Wohl Museum learning about Jewish architecture.

The Western Wall was next—what an experience for us! Since it was Thursday, it was a time when many bar mitzvah celebrations were going on, with music, dancing and singing. We got the chance to face and touch the famous wall and say prayers amid the singing and chanting.

Tony Dew at the Western Wall.

Thursday means many bar mitzvahs at the Western Wall.

The Davidson Center—named after Bill Davidson, the former Pistons owner—added to our knowledge of the architecture of the temple. We had a blessed time sitting on the Southern Stairs of the temple, reading about Pentecost and imagining the scene there. Pastor Bill challenged us to let the Spirit flow through us and to understand how Jesus brought the Spirit out of the physical temple and into many new temples—each heart of a believer.

Pastor Bill teaching on the Southern Stairs of the temple.

Mary Ter Haar reading scripture for a Pentecost lesson.

Next it was on to the City of David excavations where we could observe David's high perch in the southern heights of the city. Near there is the entrance to Hezekiah's Tunnel, the actual mile-long water system that the Old Testament king built for the city. We had the unique experience of walking through that deep tunnel in knee- or ankle-deep water, singing as we traveled with our flashlights. Be sure to ask one of the pilgrims about that amazing adventure! The tunnel comes out at the foot of the Pool of Siloam, where Pastor Bill reminded us of how we have been sent (Siloam means "sent") to see and to serve.

Ron and Fran Redder prepare for Hezekiah's Tunnel.

Maneuvering inside the mile long water system.

Barb and Jae say, "We made it!"

 

At the Pool of Siloam.

 

 Our final journey on this busy and eventful day was to St. Peter's Church at Gillicantu, said by some to be the site of Caiaphas the High Priest's home, and there has been a prison system found underneath. Whether or not it is the actual site, the prison there is like the one Jesus in which would have been placed during the time of his trial. Singing "O Sacred Head, Now Wounded" together in that deep, dark place brought tears to many eyes. We are seeing with our own eyes what our Savior endured.

 

Getting adjusted to a prison cell.

 

We will continue that journey tomorrow on our last day here, beginning with the Mt. of Olives, along the Via Dolorosa, the crucifixion sites and the Garden Tomb. If you are following this blog, you will have to wait for a description of this pilgrimage crescendo because we leave the Old City and immediately get on our flight for home. We cannot believe our pilgrimage is nearing the end—and we are most grateful to God and to our leaders, Bill and Lyn, for guiding us each day.  ~  Mike

 

Our hosts at Notre Dame surprised us with cake for dessert at dinner.

 

Bethlehem: Herod, Al-Basma and a Shepherds' Cave

Another birthday for our group, this time it's a morning toast for Carol Woltjer!

From now on we're staying pretty close to our home base at the Notre Dame Center just outside the New Gate to the Old City of Jerusalem. This morning, we drove into the West Bank to the Bethlehem area. Our first stop was one more visit to Herod the Great—his grand fortress/palace called Herodium. We saw the remains of his palace, and from the height of the ruins we could see Bethlehem, once "a little town" but today a sizable city. Herod meant to be remembered for his great buildings and possessions; he was so paranoid he even had little baby boys killed in Bethlehem in fear one might be another "King of the Jews." Pastor Bill had us read stories from the Bible that took place at or near Bethlehem and we read accounts both joyous and horrific. Ultimately, the story of Bethlehem is our story, full of happiness and sadness—but coming together in the world-changing birth of Jesus in the area in which we stood.

A lesson on the top of the Herodium.

Descending into the Bar Kochba Tunnels, underneath the Herodium.

Before we continued the Christmas story, we stopped at another place of joy, the Al-Basma Center for young Palestinian people with disabilities. As we entered the courtyard, we could hear music and dancing. It was Mother's Day at the center, with the mothers of students at Al-Basma taking in music, dance and short plays featuring their beloved children. Our tour group added to the celebration, and we were invited to take in the program—and even join the dance!

Taking in the delightful skits at the Al-Basma Center... 

 

...and we even joined the dancing!

The director of the center had been the press secretary for Libya's dictator Moammar Ghadafi, but fled that country to come home to Bethlehem where he soon felt called to lead Al-Basma. What a wonderful ministry! We were humbled by the tour of the small center, as the young people worked gladly on numerous crafts that could be sold for their support, including impressive loom work by some of the young men. We left with full hearts and the knowledge that the hands of Jesus were active today in the place of his birth.

And then, on to a shepherd's cave in a corner of the city, near the place where scripture tells of a marvelous birth. Pastor Bill showed us a cave that is one of a number in the area, and it is in such a place where our Lord was born and placed in a manger (stone, by the way, not wood).

Will we tell the story of Jesus with accuracy and great joy as the shepherds did or will we keep quiet—or even live a lie as did the Roman soldiers who were eyewitnesses to the Resurrection, yet took money to spread falsehoods? Another key reflection on our pilgrimage.

The Shepherds' Cave

Teaching about a special birth in a special place.

We made a quick stop for some olive wood purchasing at a Palestinian Christian business. While there, we noticed a section of the newly built dividing wall built by the Israeli government through this Bethlehem neighborhood, often marked by angry graffiti and pleas for peace side by side. Yet another reminder of the reconciliation that eludes our world.

The dividing wall goes through a Bethlehem neighborhood.

Coming back to Notre Dame a bit earlier than usual, we got to explore the Old City on our own for a time. Loni and I had the delight to meet two Calvin alumni who study and work in the area—Keith Blystra (studying in Jerusalem with wife Laura and two daughters) and Michael Valk (teaching English at a school in Bethlehem). They are bright, enthusiastic Calvin grads doing God's work in God's world. May they be blessed in their endeavors in this wonderful yet challenging place.  ~  Mike

An Old City street.

Mike and Loni Van Denend with Calvin grads
Keith Blystra and Michael Valk at the Notre Dame Center.

Masada, En-Gedi, Qumran and a Dead Sea float

After a tantalizing day in Jerusalem, we put off more city explorations to head back into the desert. Our first stop was the ruins of the Lido Restaurant, once a Jordanian hotspot on the edge of the Dead Sea, the lowest point below sea level on earth by the way. Two things had changed for the Lido: one, Israel pushed Jordan from this area in the 1967 war; and two, the Dead Sea has receded by a frightening amount, such that the shoreline was yet in the distance, a major environmental issue for the region. We discussed how important both water and salt are, both back in Bible days and now. Do you know where the word "salary" comes from?

The far-off Dead Sea from the once waterside Lido Restaurant.

Later we arrived at the famous Masada, where Herod had built a summer palace and fortress and where, more famously, over 900 Jewish zealots made a stand against a powerful Roman army. We got up to the top of Masada by taking the breath-taking cable car ride rather than the winding and steep Snake Path, the way people arrived in biblical times. Masada is Israel's most-visited national park.

Up to Masada in the cable car.

What an incredible feat of workmanship! A full-fledged city operated on top of the huge rock, with sophisticated water systems and baths. We marveled at the sights and stories, including the disputed tale of the end of Masada. Did the zealots commit mass suicide before being taken by the Romans or was there a capture? Like many legends in the Holy Land, debates continue.

Reviewing the design of the impressive Masada.

The view from above Herod's fortress palace.

We had an interesting time, way up in that fabled fortress, discussing the current political situation between Israel and Palestine. It all seems so intractable! We all pray for God to do a mighty work here; could something actually begin this week with a president visiting?

Discussing politics on Masada's heights.

A ways north of Masada, one finds the oasis of En-Gedi. At first, one fails to see the "oasis" part of the region, but soon, up the gradually rising trail, the rushing water is heard, and then a first waterfall, more small pools and then a magnificent second waterfall. This perfectly placed site, a crevice in what is otherwise rock and desert, is an astounding sensory experience. Many families were enjoying the pleasant weather and falling water, and at the top waterfall a large school group made a tranquil spot a busy and noisy playground.

Climbing the trail at En-Gedi.

Kids enjoying the flowing waters.

No matter. Our group found a small corner by the flowing water and Pastor Bill led us in study about David finding refuge from Saul at this very place. Bill encouraged us to not be dabblers in our Christian faith, as if we were dipping our toe in the waters, but instead to go all in—splash in the luxurious waters of God's grace with enthusiasm and energy. Touched by his passionate message, we sang an appropriate song for our location: "As the deer panteth for the waters, so my soul longeth after you." No one in this tour group will forget En-Gedi.

Pastor Bill encouraging us to immerse ourselves in Christ.

Another relatively short drive up the road brought us to Qumran, the legendary home of the Essenes and the location where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. We witnessed another desolate place, this time without the grandeur of Masada or the lush greenery of En-Gedi, but we did learn of the Essenes' carefully constructed community and creative organization of buildings and tasks. At the end of our time there, we saw two of the famous 11 caves where scrolls had been found by Bedouins. Right there in front of us was Cave 4, the most famous of the caves, since it was the first found and had the most scrolls.

Learning about the Essenes in Qumran.

The famous Cave 4 where many scrolls were found.

Our last desert region stop of the day was at the Dead Sea itself. A beach area provided a place for the brave (or crazy, or both) to personally experience the high salt content of the sea—in other words, to do a little easy floating. Many of us did, to the laughter of us all. The muddy bottom, apparently containing minerals for the skin that every store in the area was selling, was tough to negotiate, but once in deep enough water, we had many graceful water ballets to witness.

Synchronized swimming in the Dead Sea.

A light-hearted ending to a meaningful day, for body and spirit.  ~  Mike Van Denend