After a tantalizing day in Jerusalem, we put off more city explorations to head back into the desert. Our first stop was the ruins of the Lido Restaurant, once a Jordanian hotspot on the edge of the Dead Sea, the lowest point below sea level on earth by the way. Two things had changed for the Lido: one, Israel pushed Jordan from this area in the 1967 war; and two, the Dead Sea has receded by a frightening amount, such that the shoreline was yet in the distance, a major environmental issue for the region. We discussed how important both water and salt are, both back in Bible days and now. Do you know where the word "salary" comes from?
Later we arrived at the famous Masada, where Herod had built a summer palace and fortress and where, more famously, over 900 Jewish zealots made a stand against a powerful Roman army. We got up to the top of Masada by taking the breath-taking cable car ride rather than the winding and steep Snake Path, the way people arrived in biblical times. Masada is Israel's most-visited national park.
What an incredible feat of workmanship! A full-fledged city operated on top of the huge rock, with sophisticated water systems and baths. We marveled at the sights and stories, including the disputed tale of the end of Masada. Did the zealots commit mass suicide before being taken by the Romans or was there a capture? Like many legends in the Holy Land, debates continue.
We had an interesting time, way up in that fabled fortress, discussing the current political situation between Israel and Palestine. It all seems so intractable! We all pray for God to do a mighty work here; could something actually begin this week with a president visiting?
A ways north of Masada, one finds the oasis of En-Gedi. At first, one fails to see the "oasis" part of the region, but soon, up the gradually rising trail, the rushing water is heard, and then a first waterfall, more small pools and then a magnificent second waterfall. This perfectly placed site, a crevice in what is otherwise rock and desert, is an astounding sensory experience. Many families were enjoying the pleasant weather and falling water, and at the top waterfall a large school group made a tranquil spot a busy and noisy playground.
No matter. Our group found a small corner by the flowing water and Pastor Bill led us in study about David finding refuge from Saul at this very place. Bill encouraged us to not be dabblers in our Christian faith, as if we were dipping our toe in the waters, but instead to go all in—splash in the luxurious waters of God's grace with enthusiasm and energy. Touched by his passionate message, we sang an appropriate song for our location: "As the deer panteth for the waters, so my soul longeth after you." No one in this tour group will forget En-Gedi.
Another relatively short drive up the road brought us to Qumran, the legendary home of the Essenes and the location where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. We witnessed another desolate place, this time without the grandeur of Masada or the lush greenery of En-Gedi, but we did learn of the Essenes' carefully constructed community and creative organization of buildings and tasks. At the end of our time there, we saw two of the famous 11 caves where scrolls had been found by Bedouins. Right there in front of us was Cave 4, the most famous of the caves, since it was the first found and had the most scrolls.
Our last desert region stop of the day was at the Dead Sea itself. A beach area provided a place for the brave (or crazy, or both) to personally experience the high salt content of the sea—in other words, to do a little easy floating. Many of us did, to the laughter of us all. The muddy bottom, apparently containing minerals for the skin that every store in the area was selling, was tough to negotiate, but once in deep enough water, we had many graceful water ballets to witness.
A light-hearted ending to a meaningful day, for body and spirit. ~ Mike Van Denend
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